The 46th edition of Filo: LUXURY REVOLUTION
Why are we talking about luxury revolution?
Starting from the assumption that re-volution has the double meaning of ‘turning back’ and ‘turning against’, let’s think of the first meaning as a starting point for creative developments in design, both on fine traditional materials and on innovative ones. Then, let’s move to the second one, which comprises also the concept of textile structures and designs aiming at creating new aesthetics and new functionalities.
Nowadays, we are living within the ‘POST’ era: post in its literal sense of ‘later’, or in the IT one concerning new spots of social networks or as in “post-it”, a simple and coloured piece of paper that fills our lives, made forgetful by too much information and images. In any case, we have to get accustomed to perceiving how much ‘post’ is there in the different and stratified segments of post-luxury.
After the excursus on bad taste and superficiality of last editions, let’s try now to understand how these realities interact (or conflict) with the luxury’s world. Bearing in mind that, after all, luxury is “a necessity that begins where necessity ends” (le luxe est une nécessité qui commence là où finit la nécessité), as Coco Chanel put it.
Since luxury is first of all personal taste and lifestyle’s satisfaction, let’s try to understand what is needed to intercept luxury’s consumers today and in the near future.
In order to stay close to reality we will talk about LUXURIES in the plural, because, as every other aspect of modern sociability, the facets generated by high-speed communication are endless, and it seems to be rather restrictive to be obliged, for the sake of comprehensibility, to limit ourselves to few areas. And those areas range on a large field of personal tastes which flow into their contrary too. Within all contradictions inherent to it.
THE THEATRE OF LUXURY
1- the art of refinement
2- the art of complexity
3- the art of simplicity
Within this theme, there is a certain recovery of intrinsic values as quality, timeless classical nature and for sure craftsmanship. These elements have a preponderant importance compared to exterior aspects as the awareness of brand, label and the mere aesthetic and sensuality component. Obviously, these features belong more to older consumers, with higher incomes; and it applies partially to the more informed and sophisticated groups among consumers in the emerging countries (even though we are clearly talking about ‘purchasing’ codes with a shift of meanings compared to the choice made by equivalent Europeans). More than anything, product’s quality and exclusivity make the difference, all around the world. This is a quantitatively limited group where both personal and digital word of mouth is very important, especially if spread through a few cutting edge social media. We are talking about connoisseurs mainly grown up in luxury, both personally and experientially, with a strong focus on ‘tailored-made’ and uniqueness.
LUXURY BY CHANCE
1- The ego’s theatre
Is luxury shedding its skin? If we have to choose between a caviar’s cup and an agenda without dates, our answer may be different from what would have been twenty or thirty years ago: today the answer is ‘freedom’ and the minimum number of pressure.
Within this world, the concept of luxury has severely changed and many myths have fallen. There is no search for exhibitionism (mega-yachts, supercars and so on) but rather for lifestyle, pleasure for sharing or a total immersion inside nature, a special journey with friends, the need for creating intimacy and empathy, networking with other people.
In other words, this group of people search for things and events closer to the human being, to its life experience. This explains, for instance, the entrance of big luxury’s groups into the historical cafes. It is a moderate way of ‘do not appear’, born from ashes of roaring luxury; it concerns almost only European, American and Japanese consumers, who in the past were great followers of industrial and ‘show-off’ luxury, but now are now pragmatic, strongly focused on themselves and unlikely to retrace their steps.
1- True gold
2- True po
We are talking about the new ‘rich man’ of emerging countries, who had worked a lot to get where she/he is now and has just realized that she/he can spend her/his money in the luxury. A still very unripe consumer, but with a great potential. A perfect example is the “Rich Kids generation” (seeing the dedicated website is believing), which was born with paved way from their parents’ fortune. She/he is impulsive, connected, novelties and colours-hungry. Brand, aesthetics, sometimes design’s push are essential elements, more important than intrinsic quality. She/he buys clothes and (many) accessories. The very young luxury’s consumers, those who spend € 10.000 or even more every year for personal goods linked to personal aesthetic, already account for millions. Design and shopping are their social promotion’s tickets. They know all brands, they live on the stage and the logo of costumes must be prominently positioned, watches and accessories are showy and they follow recognized brands but also the last discoveries of fashion industry. They are especially women (but not only) aged between 25-40 years and the estimated turnover exceeds 15/20 billion euro yearly.
LUXURY TOWARDS FUTURE
1- Alien sport
2- Alien couture
Nowadays, we are attending to the birth of a period in which sport activities are considered in a different way compared to the past: it must be equally functional and enjoyable, generating an entire series of pondered movements which are carried out in order to elevate the body without ‘pump it up’. Again, the ‘social’ role of the activity has a fundamental nature and it attracts more and more consumers of all ages. A simple almost elementary equipment is necessary to exercise. New sporting disciplines are hybrids, mixing dance, stretching, gymnastics, light acrobatics, a bit of yoga and others.
The search for a deeper union between mind and body leads to a more refined active-wear design, maybe with some hidden details and an emphasis on the aesthetic aspect, as well as the function’s one. These products become active and passive at the same time and they allow the body to act and breathe, but they also allow the mind to ‘fly’.
Some proposals of luxury with an aesthetic meant for the time when ‘future’ will be (or already is) somewhere else.
1 – Rosy neutral shades or blurred by grey with the contrast of copy paper blue.
2 – Between the two extremities of violet/black and of medium-brown and strongly dark chestnut, a number of colours of rare metals with the sharp light of yellow and sea green.
3 – Two more vivid yellow shades and sea green are followed by synthetic black, lilac and orange.
4 – Grey-white, soft pearl grey and fruit’s colours interposed by burgundy red colour and chocolate brown.
5 – Bronze coloured, old gold and more sport and lively shades of green/blue and magenta/purple with a hint of an active yellow once more.
Biella, 20 giugno 2016
Ufficio stampa e comunicazione
EA Team Elena Aravecchia
Via Muratori 55 – Milano
Tel.: 3396473377 – 3683087865