53rd edition of Filo: Wunderkammer, a journey through the textile world
In view of the 53st edition – to be held on February 27 and 28, 2020 at MiCo – Milano Convention Center in Milan – Filo proposes to its exhibitors and, more generally, to the professionals of the textile and clothing system the product development proposals, developed by Gianni Bologna, Filo creativity and style supervisor.
Why we talk about Wunderkammer: at first sight, it could seem unjustified since the idea of chamber of wonders is mainly linked to a kind of museum gathering oddities and tastes of a solipsistic and maniacal individual.
However, by overcoming this impression, is clear that the Wunderkammer is not just a “collection” of the past, but it is also an important metaphor for the world where we are living now.
The reason is simple: Wunderkammer is a “scientific” catalogue, an “aesthetic” (and chaotic) summation, the show of beauty and ugly things, and certainly a journey. In short: (mutatis mutandis) it has all functional (and fusional) characteristics of the Internet.
The eternal interest for wandering in space (and time), nomadism, letting yourself drifting or dedicating to flânerie is clear even within the words which define it: we do not “use” the Internet, but we “browse” on the Internet. From this word, it is better shown the idea of “journey”, it emerges the reaction to boredom and disenchantment of the world that has become disciplinary and constrictive and that often makes people playing unmovable roles and living places which are often not changeable. Mobility, which so much is spoken, is indeed often a fake nomadism, a cover, a phantasmal shade.
In fact, this nomadism, fake or not, leads, among other things, to a consequence closely related to our industrial sector and it has revealed for a long time in the anarchy of shapes and attitudes and in a new dazed mannerism made of hyper-customization and egocentricity, solipsistic expression of a being detached from common formal codes and representing only itself in formulae of self-satisfaction that can be understood just by people expressing them: show, multiplication of shapes and masks, proliferation of inconsistent shapes, ornament, overflowing of emotions, the ephemeral, the abundance.
If each epoch has its own organisational principle and its establishing shape, we cannot neglect that this principle is the new baroque for our epoch.
Wunderkammer/Internet is both journey and show, multiplication of shapes and experiences but, if we consider its origin as luxury diversion of very rich people and we want to go beyond the search for its meanings, it is also the luxury of time. And the use of time, in our here and now which lives an eternal present and an eternal acceleration, it has become extremely important, deeply felt despite it seems to be intentionally “banned”. The big contradiction lays in the fact that, if our present has an outstanding characteristic, this is exactly being the time when the highest acknowledged privilege is the one of escaping from obligations and anxieties of contemporaneity. That is why, after a lot of talk about just eco-compatibility and the due respect for environment, maybe it is not a wandering idea starting talk about an ecology of the time which we are living.
CONSUMPTION CONSCIOUSNESS KNOWLEDGE
The consumer is increasingly oriented towards products which ensure transparency about the composition of fabrics, places and conditions of the production of the garment, by bringing, among other things, to a shift of mentality of the buyer from the “supply chain” to the “demand chain”. Fabrics with good durability are vital for the consumption”s cycle of the garment and the reduction of ecological impact and the increase in the value of circular economy. We are
inspired by the beauty of vegetal and animal entities which surround us within the world that is still giving us fascinating sparks.
Natural pure fibres or blends. Yarns which are not excessively fine or medium not too much hefty. Movements suggested by flaming which may or may not be noticeable.
HOLISM COMFORT IDENTITY
The most holistic attitude of the consumer brings to the search for a better balance between work and spare time, between offline and online, between time for activities and time for rest. The search for more natural rhythms of life with the following search for textile combining a stronger use of colour and its contrasts with particular tactile sensations inspired by natural and traditional elements. A homage to richness and diversity in the world, for respecting the past and the present of each cultural identity and supporting the chosen principle of eco-compatibility and recycling of materials and the increasingly awareness of resources” scarcity.
Mainly natural fibres. Yarns which are rather hefty with beautiful visible effects of twisting as cordonnet to more threads and slightly irregular waved.
CHARM HEDONISM INCITEMENT
Considering the need for estrangement from the world of hyper-connection of the digital world where we are immersed and the need for re-connect to the reality of the surrounding world and our fellowmen but also the search for aesthetically pleasant and elaborate things, art and savoir-faire understood as antidote to planned uniformity. The goal is enabling the consumer to move away from the growing uniformity of global fashion mainstream, from the boredom generated by the shop windows full of things which are perfectly standard and identical worldwide. We introduce in products new lights and aesthetical plus in order to stir new interests. If luxury has a future, it lays in tailoring, made-to-measure, minimum series and sophisticated elaborations of materials.
Both natural and man-made fibres. Yarns with fine aspect in silk or man-made versions with gloss and semi-gloss silky aspect but also slightly rustic as toussah or bourrette without any excessive irregularity and bringing a fair amount of natural light.
MULTI-FUNCTIONALITY COMFORT FUTURE
More flexible clothes: from the cross-over to the high technical performance one. The search for wellness is increasingly a dominant trend and good sales results come from clothing which satisfy the request of high versatility and products’ quality. We return to active-wear and casual themes, we perfect them through a further finalising aiming at evolutionary project of this textile “species” by also combining high performing man made with some natural fibres to reach more sophisticated hands and aspects, often three-dimensional and comfortable.
Pure man-made yarns and blends with naturals. High-performing yarns and finishing are paramount but, for not negligible casual part inspired by the technical one, decorations and movements both on the orthogonal and the circular perspective are important. This also recalls strongly decorative jacquard patterns with more than one colour and the illustration of geometric graphisms also to large scale.
Biella, December 9, 2019