48th edition of Filo: Planet Eart
During the three press conferences in Biella, Milan and Prato, Gianni Bologna (creativity and style manager for Filo) presented the product development proposals envisioned for the 48th edition of Filo.
Despite the owed praise to those who have been bringing forth for a long time the topic of natural characters – sustainability/ eco-compatibility – and not just in our textile industry – today we are not going to speak about ECO and BIO. It has never been done and we do not wish to start doing it now, for the simple reason that this dialectical paraphernalia not only have been always out of place, but in addition, we are living in a more unnatural and stilted environment with each passing day and, especially, more ambiguously communicated. This applies not only for the ‘biological’ or ‘ecological’ scope, but also – and perhaps principally – for the symbolic and informative/communicative one, with undeniable consequences on our work too. However, we carry on waiting anxiously that the basic general conditions change and make it possible to analyse them in depth, without forgetting that in relation to textile industry, each companies’ products deserve attention and that results achieved from man-made and technological fibres have become part of the textile history and they represent the most advanced peak of the present.
It furthermore seems that the number of those people who consider these debates as media excuses, just like many others, a string of ‘pre-digested’ and ‘pre-distributed’ words, as any other advertising spot, to a public made of consumers of non-ideas and hyper-images that are moving even further from the crux of the matter, rapidly increase. It is clear that the problem exists and that it is long-standing and imminent, but for too much (evident) reasons, too rarely the opportunity to sort it out concretely is given – and so far it seems to lack the macroeconomic interest to do it. As a result, a decision has followed: to transform the issue into a ‘spot’ with the appropriate propagandistic marketing language. So, we had slipped into an evanescent and programmed unreality. And again we are waiting that at least some of the current promises could bear real fruits.
Therefore, let’s start from these premises of communicative ‘overfilling’ (I want to stress it again: this happens not only in textile industry). On the basis of clear signs of generalised tiredness toward these dialectical tools, let’s do a simple, humble and direct act of consciousness and empathy, without mince words or linguistic frills to the sole thing we, as humans, have in common: the HOME that has been hosting us for millions of years. Our PLANET. Let then the diction and pre-diction’s exercise to those who think to be able to manage events through ‘cognitive’ and ‘anticipatory’ processing, sure of the fact that reality will follow predictions. However, it is unarguable that from time to time something is jamming and the mechanism is not working. Let’s instead do a gesture of affection toward this tiny celestial body which seems to be in poor health conditions and which sends us messages about its discomfort that sometimes are destroying, sometimes disturbing, always disorientating. But often dazzling of splendour.
We can get inspired by the irrefutable poetry emerging from the images of this light blue planet, both origin and part of our DNA. A Planet that would desire to safeguard itself in all its beautifulness and goodness, but that is getting out of hand. And let’s especially do it according to an invitation for a positivity’ gesture, despite everything, even at the cost of challenging obviousness, looking for inspiration for the new season within these beauties with an invitation to remain, very simply and without mincing words, verbal and communicative hypertrophy nor back thoughts, having one’s feet ‘on the ground’. aiming at changing everything to be more sustainable as soon as possible from the material and psychological point of view and committing to protect the future (not only the past), considering that the main meaning of the word ‘nature’ is ‘what will be delivered’.
The textile themes
Movements and irregularities on matt textile aspects, not just rough but also coarse. Inspirations are taken from roots’ woods, rocks, marbles, clayey sands and grounds. Irregular appearance and representation as stains, stripes, unrefined brush stroke, irregular bubbles, gash. An overlapping of materials which are almost always different, but basically mainly natural. It is important the contrast existing between the strongly rough matter, the clearness and the sparkling colours of precious and rare gemstones. Visible weaves especially on jacquards, but also thanks to very hefty yarns whose structure is often irregular. Natural cellulose fibres, cotton, waved, slubb and buttoned frisottino yarns, linen and unbleached linen, vegetal fibres as hemp, jute, ramie for knitting too. Defective surfaces within stiches and weaves. Blended yarns. Mesh, lace, big macramè, canvas, double layers. Evanescent patterns, not visibly invasive, consumed, non-defined frames and references to natural elements as cortex, flowers and plants.
Yarns and fabrics’ look recalls the small ruffles of the aquatic masses where brightness mixes together with some more opaque material shadows drawing inspiration from the three consistencies of water: liquid, solid and gaseous. Final results reflects the
lightness and the slipperiness, vitreous, plastic, opalescent and shimmering aspects which refer to the living matter and unreal shades of molluscs and colourful and imaginary shells, the ones of underwater vegetation in continuous movement as well as irregular, shaded decorations, fleeing within printed fabrics, jacquards and misting misdyed fabrics. Silken looks (both natural and man-made), plain and even slightly waved, play an important role and they are based on yarns with consequent composition and medium-fine and fine count. Outwear evolution and merger with lingerie and sportswear, summer velvet fabrics, pleated silks, airy laces and soft drapery, organza, georgette and tulle. Overlapping of fabric and voile for 3D shimmering effects. High-quality polyamide and polyester for dusters and voluminous, curled and pleated coats. Light and compact knitted items or coloured mesh too. Jacquard jersey with patterns imitating digital ones.
Linearity (as time) and circularity play (as seasons). In an alternation of natural and man-made raw materials, textile aspects (from yarn to fabric) between medium-fine and fine, between gloss and semi-opaque, between ultralight and voluminous. Materials which are different as well as aspects of what surrounds is within the natural environment but in a broader sense, where nature’s endless shapes merge with the work of human craftsman, tireless creator of ‘artefacts’ that, as indicated by the name itself, are artificial and they are not spontaneously created by nature. Let’s remind once more that originally the word ‘nature’ means ‘what will be delivered’ and this refers then to evolutionary components of the concept. An evolution which can guarantee thousands of opportunities. Dyed yarns with tye and dye effect too. Blending of cotton fine yarns, viscous or synthetic with small roving, little chenille for temple’s structure, slightly rigid canvas, thin popeline and rasetti. High-quality silk and viscose for pongè and Javanese. Crêpe yarns, slightly waved, with orange peel and moiré finishing. Mix of styles and cultures for a mild and sophisticated ethnic mode, not exacerbated but in line with Made-in-Italy class.
Clouds and winds are celestial bodies knows by everyone, but there is also the technology which attends and conquers them. Therefore, beauty and poetry’s aspects matched together with images of the most advanced human technology. Sky, the last ground of humans’ conquest which we represent and with airy materials that are extremely man-made as well as with last-generation technological materials that embodies the savoir-faire of homo faber. Last generation matters and ultralight and highly hard technological materials and aspects mainly semi-gloss and gloss which play on minimal but extremely innovative and airy aesthetics, on technological solidity and ‘angelic’ lightweights. PVC, elaborate denim, polyurethane and printed finishing, super fine metals, iridescences and mirror–like effects, micro fleece and protective technological materials of last generation for extreme sport and streetwear too. Stretch parachute and other uses of monofil. Vitreous metal and plastic effects. Minimum fantasies between optical and pop.